It’s not always easy for me to explore waterways outside of northern New York during the paddling season, but in recent years I’ve made a concerted effort to get out of my backyard and check out new spots. Last year, for the Northern Forest Canoe Trail’s inaugural Rangeley Oquossoc Adventure Rendezvous, I found myself in western Maine for a few days, with time to spare for a short trip down the Kennebago River.
This paddle was recommended to me by Seth Laliberte who, along with his wife Shelli, owns and operates Rangeley Adventure Co, a longtime outfitter formerly owned by Linda Dexter. Rangeley Adventure Co is a key partner to the NFCT, as it’s one of the few outfitters paddlers can find in western Maine. Their shop is located in the heart of downtown Rangeley and is a great jumping off point for paddlers new to the region.
I met Seth at his shop on a sunny, warm Friday morning. After a quick tour and introductions to his staff, he gave me a short overview of the downriver paddle on the Kennebago. I jumped in my truck and followed him to a pull off on Route 16, just a few miles out of town. There, we transferred my gear to his rig and took a short drive up Boy Scout Road. Seth dropped me off at the Steep Bank Pool Hand Carry Access and we parted ways.
The put-in is fairly accessible, though you do have to navigate a short, steep staircase — the good news is that the steps are well-maintained and the put-in itself should be easy enough for most folks. Once in the water, you’re paddling with the current through a narrow stretch of river about 20 yards wide at most, along banks that are surrounded by evergreens and shrubs. Just downstream of the put-in, there’s a very short rapid — easy class I at the most — that you’ll need to navigate, really just a quick drop that shoots you back into slower moving water.
On our drive over, Seth noted that the Kennebago is a popular destination for anglers, and it’s easy to see why. It’s crystal clear water, and as you get further downstream, the dense woods give way to gently sloped gravel banks that I imagine would be perfect for pulling over and casting. After a mile or so, the trees recede even further, opening up the scenery to the surrounding mountains. I learned later on that the Rangeley Lakes Heritage Trust — longtime partners of the NFCT — have been implementing the Kennebago Headwaters Restoration project, a major watershed restoration that will make this gem of a river even more pristine, allowing it to rediscover its natural course.
Being my first time paddling in the Maine wilderness — excluding whitewater adventures on the Penobscot River with my dad when I was in my teens — I spent much of my journey desperately seeking a moose, but no joy there. I did, however, spot numerous herons and ducks. I’m utterly hopeless when it comes to birds, but there was tons of activity, so if birding is your thing, this is a great place to explore.
I’m not a fast paddler — to be perfectly honest, “lazy” is my preferred speed — but this 4-mile paddle zoomed by, and before I knew it, I was going under the Route 16 bridge and nearly sped past the take-out. The take-out is easy to navigate, with a gently-sloped, sandy bank and a relatively flat trail back to the pull off.
For paddlers looking to explore waterways just off the NFCT, I highly recommend the Kennebago — if I can swing it, I’ll be back next season to check out more of the Rangeley region. If you plan on checking out the area, be sure to stop by Rangeley Adventure Co and say hi to Seth and Shelli and pick up some great local tips. If you are looking to discover more about the beautiful town of Rangeley, delicious food, plenty of lodging and an array of adventures abound. The Rangeley Lakes Chamber of Commerce can point you in the right direction.
